Trousers-pattern



(Nb Model.)

' V s Sheets-Sheet 1. S BISCEGLIA. TROUSERS PATTERN. 5 i No. 455,503. Patented July 7, 1891. V

we uonms Penna c0 Puamxmoi, wumuawu n (No Model.) 3 She'ets-Sheet 3.

s. BISCEGLIA. TROUSERS PATTERN.

No. 455,503. Patented July 7, 1891 r I j. .o I. H v

M v avwwwtoz Mxmm UINrTED STATES SALVATORE BISCEGLIA,

PATENT OFFICE.

OF CHIQAGO, ILLINOIS.

TROUSERS-PATTERN.

SPECIFICATION formingpart of Letters Patent No. 455,503, dated July '7, 1891.

' Application filed. March 5, 1891.

To all whom it flbtty concern.-

Be it known that I, SALVATORE BISCEGLIA, a citizen of the UnitedStates, residing at Chicago, county of Cook, and State of Illinois, .have invented certain new and useful Improvement-s in Trousers-Patterns, which are fully set forth inthe following specification, reference being had to the accompanying drawings, forming a part thereof.

This invention relates to adjustable pat-- terns for tailors use, designed to be adjusted according to measurements taken in the cus tomary manner upon the person to be fitted, the pat tern when adjusted to be used as a guide for the cutter, thereby dispensing with the necessity of a high degree of skill in working from such measurements.

The drawings illustrate a pattern for the front piece, and details of this invention relate only to that piece, but its more generic features are applicable to patterns for both pieces.

In the drawings, Figure l is a plan of the pattern as subdivided for purposes of ad j ustment, but with the adjusting devices removed to show the divisions withless confusion, but showing a hinge-joint where said pattern is adapted to be folded. Fig. 2 is a plan With all details of the adjusting devices of the portion above the hinge Fig. 3 is a similar detail of the portion below the hinge. Both .these figures show the pattern atminimum adjustment. Fig. iis a plan of the pattern partially extended. Fig. 5 is a detail plan of the double or telescoping connection and scale which is used in the lateral adjustments on account of the insufliciency of the minimum width to accommodate the scale necessary to indicate the maximum width.

A andB are central or body sections of the pattern,the section B being divided and joined together at the hinge C, at which line also the lateral or marginal sections K and L, hereinafter described, are divided and hinged for, convenience of folding the pattern when not in use.

The body or central sections A and B of the pattern include none of the marginal outline, except the short portion a of the curve of the junction-seam line, and not including either extremity of. that curve and Serial na'ssasle. (No model.)

the portion a near the bottom of the innerseam line. The marginal outline, except the portions o and a, forms the outer edges of the marginal sections D E F GH IJ on three sides of thesection A above the knee-line, and the sections K and K on the rear side and L on the forward side of the section B below the knee-line, and the sections M and N forming the-bottom outline below the ankle-line. The pattern is extensible for length at three principal places-above the an kle-line, above the k nee-line, and below the waist-lineand is made laterally extensible at these several lines, so that by the proper longitudinal extension the sliding connections which permit the transverse extension and the scales which pertain to them, respectively, may be properly located at the lines to which the dimension which they indicate, respectively, pertain. Thus, R being the scale for the waist measurement, the pattern is divided trans versely just below that scale at the line rr, and 0 being the scale for the knee measurement, the pattern is divided a little above that scale at the line 0 0,.andP being the 5 scale for the ankle or bottom measurement, the pattern is divided transversely at the line 19 above that scale. The several sections adjacent at the divisional lines are connected together by stems fastened to one section and sliding in guideways on the other to cause them to be adjusted in the proper direction away from the adjacent sectionthat is to, say, the body-sections A and B being the basis of adjustment, the marginal sections have stems which slide on said body-sections as the marginal sections are adjusted toward and from the body, and in like manner the two bodysections are provided one with stems T and the other with guide-bearings Q for such stems, whereby they may be adjusted apart, and with scales Q to denote the total length produced by such extension. Springcatches S are provided to engage with apertures s or equivalent devices 011 the stems to secure the sections inposition as adjusted. The scales in the several instances are secured parallel to the guide-bearings of the stems,

and said stems are provided with 'lDClGX-fillgers which move along the scales, respectively,

Icq

to denote the degree of extension. With the f exception of the waist-corner section H, the .marginal sections on each side are connected to each other either directly, as in the case of the sectionsland J and the sections K and K, or by means of the stem of one of the adjacent sections sliding on the other section, as in the case of the stem 7; of the section K, sliding on the section J, and the stem Z of the section L, sliding on the section D, and the stem m of the section M, sliding on the section K. In most instances these connections of adjacent marginal sections to each other, both when they are connected by means of their stems and when they are directly connected, are pivotal, so that the marginal sections which form the outline are like links-of a chain. The purpose of this is that the adjustment of any one of these sections laterally from the body at any point at which it is necessary to adjust it shall not carry its end adjacent to the next section out of continuous line with that adjacent section, so that although the adjacent section may itself be adjusted laterally at a suitable point the marginal outlines of the two sections may blend in a continuous line at their new positions. In most instances, however, two adj acentor consecutive sections of the marginal series are not provided with lateral adjustments, but only the alternate sections are so provided, so that the intermediate section, being .pivotally connected to both sections thus adjusted, serves as the means of blending the outlines of the two sections, which are thus positively adjusted. Instances of this construction may be noticed at the outer-seam line. Commencing at the bottom, the section M is adjustable laterally away from the section N. The next section K has no independent. adjustment, but is pivotally connected by means of the stem m to'the section M, (said stem being longitudinally adjustable but laterally rigidly fixed with the section K,) and at the other end is pivotally-conneeted at 70 with the section K, this section K being laterally adjustable for the knee measurement on the body-section B. The next marginal section J again has a pivotal connection by means of the stem k with the section K and directly at the other end with the section I, said section I having a-ipositive lateral adj ustment with respect to the 'body A. Thus the extremities M and I it and the middle section K have positive adjustments to fix the three lateral dimensions at the'ankleor 'bot-tom, at the knee, and at the hip. 'The waist-corner section H has also aipositive'lateral adjustment, and might have an intermediate or link section-connecting it to the section I, but for the fact that the distance is'so short that it is not necessary to provide a blending-section between I and II, said sections being at the minimum adjustment immediately contiguous and at the maximum adjustment so separatedthat the 'proper'outline between them is practically a straight line, requiring no marginal guide to obtain the right conformation. Another instance of the linking together of alternate rigidly-adjustable sections by intermediate blending section is seen at the junction-seam curve when the marginal section, defined by the outline edge a of the body A, is further defined by the sections E' and F. Here, however, the link connection is somewhat more complex than on the outer-seam line, because the section F not only has the upper terminal portion of the junction-seam line, but also the inner terminal portion of the upper end or waistband li nethatis, has the upper front corner and must therefore be adjusted not only laterally for width,but vertically for length, resulting in a diagonal adjustment, whichis obtained by means of a second guidestem F and indicated by thcscale Y,-and in orderthat in this diagonal adjustmentavherein it moves both laterally and vertically, may carry the upper end of the linked section E laterally a proper distance, it has the vertical stem F which slides in a swiveled guide f pivoted to the section E,which is connected by the link 6 to the section E, which in turn is connected by the link e to the body-section A. The reason for applying the short links 6 and 6 instead of pivoting the section E directly to the body A and to the section E, or, as might be done, to the guidef is that the change of curvature of this upper curve of the inner-seam line in differently-proportioned garments is so great that the edgemust be as flexible-as possible in order to adapt it to indicate the curvature properly through all the necessary variations; but the links 6 and e and the sections Eare so short that the change of position of the section E, which may bemade ata given position of the sections F and A, is only such as will permit said section E .to be thrown into the natural sweeping curve, which will connect the edges of F and A without abrupt changes of direction, and such adjustment will be made naturally intraeing the outline.

In the minimum adjustment of the-pattern it will be observed that the section E i-s-zeovered by and lies upon the section F, so that it does not form any part of the outline, and only in case the section F is adjusted diagonally upward and forward does this section E assist in forming the-outlinebyhelpingto fill the gap which is thus created between the sections E and F.

Another instance of link connection .not strictly conforming to the. rule above laid down, that alternate sections are positively adjustable and alternate sections serve to blend the outlines, but nevertheless follow- .ing the same general method, is seen in .the

inner-seam line, the section D having at 'its upper end the curved stem 61, by which it is laterally adjustable at that end relatively to the body-section A, and the section L having the rigid stem which slides in a guidewayin the section D in longitudinal adjustment,

whereby the sections D and L are rigid with each other as to lateral movement, the'section L-being pivoted at its lower end to the body-section B, so that the greater portion of the inner-seam line is adjustable by swinging on a pivot at the lower end, carrying the upper end or corner D.laterall y; but itwill be observed that in such pivotal adjustment, since the stem D is notcurved'in an are about the pivot Z, but, on the contrary, is curvedapproximately in the direction of curvature ofthe junction-seam line, such adjustment of:

necessity varies the length and compensation occurs automatically at the sliding connection between the stem Z of the section L and the section D. The lateral adjustment of the corner D is'indicated on the scale U.

The range of lateral or roundabout dimensions in garments for difierent persons is so greatthat the lateral adjustment of the marginal sections from the minimum to the maximum size necessary cannot conveniently be indicated on a scale of a length which thebody portion of the pattern can contain-that is, the difference between the minimum and,

maximum dimensions at the knee, for example, is greater than the width which can be conveniently given to the body B at the point where the knee dimension must be indicated by the scale, so that in order to adapt the pattern to be adjusted from minimum to maximum sizes a double scale must be provided;

or virtually a telescoping stem'witha scale corresponding to each sectionof the same. Such device is represented in detail'in Fig.

scale at the bottom or below the ankle-line,

where the sections M and N are connected N, V being the scale fixed to such and relatively adjustable. Description of this double scale and telescopingstem will suffice for similar constructions of the scales and stems at the knee-line, where the scale is lettered O; at the hip-line, where it is lettered way V and engaging the apertures 41 in the stem V to secure :it in position with respect to the guideway V, and V is a similar springcatch secured to the inner end of the guideway V and engaging the apertures "U" in the section N. V is a scale on the section N adjacent to the path of the inner end of the guideway V as the latter slides in the guideway W.

The operation of this double scale and stem may now be understood. When the sections are to be adjusted from minimum adjustment to a larger size, the spring-catch V will be engaged in the extreme notch 7. in the section 0, the instance selected for illustration being the N, the guideway V and the scale V which is fixed to it, being at their innermost position.

of the guideway V serving as the index-point,-

said scale being numbered after the highest number on the scale V The measurements which are indicated by the scales R and X are body measurements, which in the garment are made upv of four partstwo fronts and two backswhile the knee and ankle measurements are limb measurements, each made up of only two parts-one frontand onebackand the longitudinal measurements indicated by the longitudinal scales are made up each of one part only. Accordingly the unit of the longitudinal scalesis one inch or otherstandard unit; The unit or" the scales 0 and P,'cor'- responding to limb measurement, is half of the unit of the longitudinal scales, or half an inch, and the unit of the body-measurement scales is one-fourth that of the longitudinal scales, or a quarter of an-inch. The unit of measurement of the oblique scales, as the j unction-seam-curve scale U, is such relatively to the unit of the scale X measurement as experience indicates, the ordinals of its several degrees corresponding to the ordinals of the scale X, its purpose being to indicate an adjustment of the point D, corresponding to hip measurement. In practice its unit is about one-third that of the scale X. The unit of the scale Y for the'adjustment of IIO the section]? is such that the -lateral change of the section F for each unit of said scale is equal to a unit of the scale R'that is to say, a quarterof an inch. The section F, whose adjustment is indicated by the scale Y, is provided with this adjustment to correspond to extra abdominal measurement, on

which account said adjustment is forward, difiering from the regular adjustment for waist measurement, which is made by movin g outward the outer-seam line, and for each unit of adjustment of the section F, as indicated on the scale Y, half a unit will be deducted from the adjustment'to be made ofthe section .H, as indicated on the scale R, the other half being deducted from the corre sponding measurement of the rear piece of the garment, so that the waist measurement Willbe correctly observed, while at the same time the garment will be fitted to the exceptional form which produced such measurement For the purpose of the combination of the upper forward corner-section with the section which has the portion a of the junction-seam edge it is not material whether the section A, which has that edge a, is what is termed the body-section or not-that is, it is not material whether or not the edge a is upon a section with respect of which the opposite marginal outline-sections are adjusted.

I claim- 1. In a garment-pattern, in combination with two sections, each having a portion of the outline edge, each being adjustable independently of the other in an invariable direction, sections of such pattern having intermediate portions of the outline edge extending between the said two relatively adjustable sections to complete the outline between them and pivotally connected to each other and to said relatively adjustable sections, whe eby said linked sections are adapted to define a curved portion of the outline edge variably, according to the relative adjustment of said two adjustable sections, substantially as set forth.

2. In combination with the body, marginal outline-sections pivotally connected to each other in longitudinal order, alternate ones of such marginal sections being provided with stems guided transversely on the body, Whereby said alternate stemmed sections are adj ustable toward and from the body, and the other alternate marginal sections are carried with them and blend their outlines, substantially as set forth.

3. In combination with the body, marginal 5. In a trousers-pattern, the section A, hav- I ing the junction-seam edge a, the upper forward corner-section adjustable relatively to the section A diagonally with respect to said corner, said corner-section having a vertical stem combined with a series of marginal outline-sections linked together and at the lower end linked to the section A and at the upper end having sliding pivotal connection with said vertical stem, substantially as set forth.

In testimony whereof I have hereunto set my hand, at Chicago,lllinois, this 28th dayof February, 1891.

SALVATORE BISOEGLIA.

Witnesses:

OSCAR DURANTU, LUIGI SPIZZIRRI. 

